Overview
The Runnel is located on fluted buttress. It is a straightforward gully ascent with an interesting chimney on the last pitch.
Approach
From Aviemore take bus or car upto the ski centre car park. Follow "climber's path" into Coire an t-Sneachda. On reaching the boundered section bare straight ahead. There are three gullies on Fluted Buttress: Central Gully, The Runnel and Crotched Gully. The Runnel is the most well defined gully rising from the top of the snow bay in a vertical straight line.
Route Description
The 1st pitch is straightforward (Scottish Grade 1) |
The Runnel's route |
The route is well potected requiring 3-4 pitches depending on whether you are using 50 or 60m rope.
1) Straightforward climb up gulley's snow slope
2) Again straightforward with a small ice step on route
3) The crux pitch through an icy chimney. Grooves either side of the chimney can also be climbed.
Essential Gear
2 x technical axes
Rope
Helmet
Crampons
Harness
Nuts
Pegs
Quickdraws
Screwgates
Rockcentrics
Ice screws
External Links
Great photos of the route
Cairngorm conditions reports
Current Cairngorm Weather