I suggest for anyone wishing to avoid the loose stuff in the couloir, from the basin on the west side of the peak, go due south over the step, aiming for the "7200" mark on the USGS map, that cliff is easily ascended with a bit of route judgment. Then just walk up the SW slope to the false summit, then go through the notch. Exposure at the famous notch pretty much requires a rope, but an obvious catwalk/ledge around the notch wall makes it a cakewalk, plus there are great spots to easily sling the rope to the wall.
setrent - Oct 20, 2011 11:51 pm Date Climbed: May 10, 2006
North Face
This face was much steeper and more commiting than the description led us to believe. The rock is poor and the ice thin. Pick your conditions well.
gimpilator - Oct 24, 2015 11:24 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2015
Southwest CouloirA fun route despite all the loose rock. Killer views and a killer area!
relic - Jan 26, 2013 3:58 pm
SW "slope"I suggest for anyone wishing to avoid the loose stuff in the couloir, from the basin on the west side of the peak, go due south over the step, aiming for the "7200" mark on the USGS map, that cliff is easily ascended with a bit of route judgment. Then just walk up the SW slope to the false summit, then go through the notch. Exposure at the famous notch pretty much requires a rope, but an obvious catwalk/ledge around the notch wall makes it a cakewalk, plus there are great spots to easily sling the rope to the wall.
setrent - Oct 20, 2011 11:51 pm Date Climbed: May 10, 2006
North FaceThis face was much steeper and more commiting than the description led us to believe. The rock is poor and the ice thin. Pick your conditions well.
ExcitableBoy - Dec 29, 2010 10:03 am
North FaceAttempted the North Face. Made it about 1/2 way and bailed due to poor ice conditions.
Fred Spicker - May 26, 2009 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 1983
SW CouloirSolo (e.g. alone)
Again with Moni on 12 Sept. 2012 - I totally forgot how awful the talus and scree were in the couloir.